Travel Blog | Thailand and Cambodia | Part Two
NOTE: Our trip to Thailand and Cambodia took place in November 2019, before the COVID-19 pandemic. For current guidelines, please click here for Thailand and for Cambodia, click here.
Hi friends!
If you’re reading this blog post, I’ll assume you’ve read Part One, which details our time spent traveling from Phoenix, Arizona to Thailand and our stay in Bangkok. Part One also details things we did before the trip to Asia, as well as our packing list.
Part Two details our time spent in Battambang and Siem Reap (Cambodia).
BELOW IS OUR DAILY ITINERARY:
Day 1, Friday (11/15/2019) – Travel Day (Phoenix to Seattle; Seattle to Seoul)
Day 2, Saturday (11/16/2019) – Travel Day (Arrive in Seoul; Seoul to Bangkok; Arrive at hotel)
Day 3, Sunday (11/17/2019) – All day in Bangkok, Thailand
Day 4, Monday (11/18/2019) – All day in Bangkok, Thailand
Day 5, Tuesday (11/19/2019) – Bangkok to Siem Reap by air; Siem Reap to Battambang by private van
Day 6, Wednesday (11/20/2019) – Spend morning and early afternoon in Battambang; Leave for Siem Reap by private van at 3:00PM
Day 7, Thursday (11/21/2019) –All day in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Day 8, Friday (11/22/2019) – All day in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Day 9, Saturday (11/23/2019) – All day in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Day 10, Sunday (11/24/2019) – Siem Reap to Phuket via AirAsia
Day 11, Monday (11/25/2019) – All day in Phuket, Thailand
Day 12, Tuesday (11/26/2019) – All day in Phuket, Thailand
Day 13, Wednesday (11/27/2019) – All day in Phuket, Thailand
Day 14, Thursday (11/28/2019) – All day in Phuket, Thailand
Day 15, Friday (11/29/2019) – Phuket to Bangkok via Thai Airways
Day 16, Saturday (11/30/2019) – Travel Day (Bangkok to Seoul; Seoul to Los Angeles; Los Angeles to Phoenix)
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 19TH
BANGKOK TO BATTAMBANG (VIA SIEM REAP)
We woke up around 5am and checked out of Centre Point Silom by 6:00am. The hotel called a van taxi for our trip to Don Mueang International Airport (DMK), which cost 241 Baht plus 120 Baht highway fee ($12 USD) and was about a 45min ride in rush hour traffic. DMK is the smaller of two international airports serving the Bangkok area, the other one being Suvarnabhhumi (bigger and newer).
We purchased airfare directly with AirAsia for the trip from DMK to Siem Reap a couple of months beforehand, and prepaid for checked baggage – 30kg for me (66 pounds) and 25kg for Kevin (55 pounds). We had the option to combine our checked baggage allowance because we’re traveling under the same booking number. AirAsia allows one carryon bag (22in x 14in x 9 in) and one personal item like a purse (15in x 11in x 4in), as long as both items do not exceed a combined weight of 7kg (15 pounds).
Our flight was scheduled to depart at 9:55am, and we were in line to check in around 7:00am. There was already a long line, but it moved fairly quickly and we were done with check in by 7:30am.
We had time to kill and since Kevin and I didn’t grab breakfast at the hotel with his parents, we went to Thai Street Food Express to grab something to eat. (Kevin’s parents ate breakfast at the hotel, so didn’t join us.)
I ordered the Asian omelette and Stir-Fried Morning Glory, food I used to eat often for breakfast growing up.
Kevin ordered the Boat Noodles - he said it was tasty!
Since the plane can’t pull up to the gate, we were called to get on the shuttle bus at 9:15am to take us to where it was parked on the tarmac. It was ridiculous how AirAsia staff made ALL passengers fit into one shuttle bus, so be prepared to feel like canned sardines. Boarding was relatively painless, but be sure to have your boarding pass out as the stewardesses will check them as you board.
The plane took off at 10am and we landed in Siem Reap at 10:50am. Even though it was a short flight, we were offered beverage and food service, with payment accepted in Thai Baht only.
Bottled water costs 40 Baht ($1.32 USD), soda costs 60 Baht ($1.99 USD), and my coconut water costs 65 Baht ($2.15 USD).
SIEM REAP
Just like DMK, the planes at Siem Reap International Airport do not pull up to the gate, so we got off and walked the short distance to the airport terminal. Bangkok and Siem Reap are in the same time zone, so we didn’t lose or gain any time.
Most travelers to Cambodia will need visas and can get one upon arrival. We applied for our eVisas from the official Kingdom of Cambodia website about a month before our trip. It was an easy application process and I highly recommend going this route because it will save you time at the airport since there will be dedicated immigration counters for eVisa holders. The line here is much shorter than the one for the on-arrival visa application. The eVisa is valid for 90 days from the date of application approval, so be sure to not apply for one too early. You’ll need to upload a passport photo as well as a copy of your passport as part of the application process, and the fee is $30 plus a $7 processing fee per person. You have the option of including everyone in your party on the same eVisa application, which we did. For more info on eVisas, click here to visit the official website.
It took about 15 minutes to finish at the eVisa counter and get our passports stamped because the gentleman kept trying to get me to register for the K Visa (I was born in Cambodia and qualify for dual citizenship). The K Visa will allow me to remain in Cambodia with no time constraints. Since we were in a time crunch, I opted not to apply for one this trip. We were able to collect our luggage from baggage claim by 11:15am and breezed through customs.
Our Siem Reap AirBnb host arranged for a private van to take us to Battambang, and the driver (Matel), was waiting for us as we exited the terminal. I’m sure Matel was thinking, ‘Damn, these people have so much baggage!”. Between me and Kevin, we had three LARGE suitcases and a carryon. Granted, one of the large suitcases was full of clothing, toys and other goodies we donated to my relatives in Cambodia - but still, we don’t travel light!
We were in the van and off to Battambang by 11:30am.
Siem Reap and Battambang are 99 miles (160 km) apart, and usually it’s about a 3hr drive, but Matel said it was going to take longer because of heavy construction. It was a scenic drive, and no bias, but Cambodia’s countryside is very beautiful. Cows and water buffalos are everywhere, as well as loads of mopeds, which is the cheapest form of transportation available to Cambodians. There doesn’t seem to be any traffic rules, but yet it’s controlled chaos. Don’t freak out, but you’ll see up to four passengers on a moped (including little babies), and although the legal age to drive one is 16 years, we saw lots of children younger than that. When in Rome…right?
We arrived at our hotel, the Sanctuary Villa, at 3pm. The hotel is located in a neighborhood and is very unassuming from the outside. However, once we turned into the long driveway, it’s like we stepped into a different world. Kudos to my sister for suggesting this hotel because it definitely feels like a sanctuary! Check in was quick and we were each offered a cool towel and welcome drink while we waited for our rooms to be ready.
Customer service was exemplary throughout our stay and we tipped generously. I love how grateful each person was to receive anything extra…so rewarding! My sister & her husband also got a room at the Sanctuary Villa, and this will be a meeting point while we’re in Battambang.
Kevin and I were assigned a beautiful villa up front, away from the other villas/rooms, but we appreciated the privacy. My sister/hubby and Kevin’s parents were assigned rooms closer to the pool area. We settled in, freshened up a bit, and relaxed before we had to head out again.
The hotel also offers cheap massage therapy, including Aromatherapy ($15 USD for 60mins/$20 USD for 90 mins), Khmer Massage ($12 USD for 60mins/$15 USD for 90mins), Back Massage ($12 USD for 60mins), and Foot Massage ($12 USD for 60mins).
So due to scheduling conflicts, my sister and her husband, Jake, arrived in Cambodia 1.5 weeks before us. They were kind enough to arrange for a private van to take several family members with them for a trip to Phnom Penh (Cambodia’s capital) and Siem Reap. (More highlights from their trip are detailed later.)
Around 4:30pm the driver of the van my sister had been using came by with my cousin, Chet, and four other relatives to pick the six of us up for the trip to Phnom Sampeau, a site that has a personal connection to our family.
One of my younger sisters and I were born in Battambang, during a time when the Khmer Rouge had control over Cambodia between 1975 and 1979.
Battambang was evacuated by the Khmer Rouge in 1976 and citizens were move to the countryside for forced labor under harsh conditions. Millions eventually died either by illness, starvation, or murder by the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Many, including my dad, uncle and Chet, were separated from their families and moved to prisons to await execution.
Chet wanted to show us the killing caves at Phnom Sampeau because he, my dad, and one of my uncles were supposed to have been killed at one of them, but they escaped that fate thanks to another of my uncles.
Left Video: Chet arranging a pickup truck to take us to the top of Phnom Sampeau to visit the temple and killing caves.
Right Video: It’s a long hike to the top of the mountain, so we were grateful for the pickup truck ride ($2 USD/per person). It’s a little risky riding in the back of a pickup truck that’s going up the mountain at a face pace, with no seat beats, but it was also fun!
When we reached the temple, we were met by a local man who goes up to the mountain each day to act as a guide to visitors. (Only the monks are allowed to stay on the mountain overnight.)
Although we didn’t need the guide, since we had Chet and my aunts to narrate the history for us, we allowed him to lead us down to one of the caves so that he could earn several dollars. Along the way we donated several dollars to the elderly ladies there, who gave us blessings as we did so. There were also kids milling about, but they will tag along and narrate the history of all that’s happened at the mountain, no doubt the knowledge was passed down from their elders. Even if you’re annoyed with any of the people there, please be kind and just say ‘no thank you’ and move along. If you don’t mind the narration and eagerness of the children, then please tip a dollar or two if you’re able.
The people live in abject poverty there, and are eager to earn any money. Unfortunately, education is not a priority because each family is busy trying to put food on the table and survive. With that said, no matter how poor Cambodians are, they are a very generous and optimistic (dare I say happy) people (no bias).
Thousands of Cambodians were killed at Phnom Sampeau, with many led to the top of the caves (skylight), bludgeoned, and thrown down to die. If the fall doesn’t kill them, they’ll eventually pass from hypothermia and/or their injuries. Some of the recovered remains are stored in a glass-walled memorial, and near it is a reclining Buddha.
The video to the left shows the top of one of the caves, where prisoners were either killed or injured and then thrown from the skylight to the floor below. One of my uncles (Ren) was forced to work for the Khmer Rouge because he knew how to drive and was considered useful to them.
Through his connections (Khmer Rouge soldiers sympathetic to their fellow Cambodians plight), Uncle Ren found out that Chet, another of my uncles, and my dad were led to this particular cave for execution in the late ‘70s. Uncle Ren was able to arrive at Phnom Sampeau in time to smooth talk the Khmer Rouge solders into turning over Chet, my dad, and my uncle over to him by telling the soldiers that the prisoners were to be transported to another area for slave labor. (He presented forged papers to support the alleged transfer.)
After visiting the caves, we got back on the pickup and headed to the top of the hill to take in the beautiful views of the Battambang countryside. Near the top of the hill are little markets where you can buy ice cream and cold, bottled water.
Phnom Sampeau has become a place of pilgrimage for Cambodians who live in the United States and Europe, and I certainly felt a sense of spirituality mixed in with heartache for the lost souls.
My aunt feeding the many Macaque monkeys that roam freely on Phnom Sampeau. They’re very used to humans and are pretty much friendly. However, do be careful about getting too close to them – they’re quite mischievous and may snatch things from your hands. 🐒
Monkeys chillin’ on a hammock - just another idyllic day...
Monkeys and views of the beautiful Battambang countryside - what more could we want? Can you spot the photo-bomber in our photo below?
At 5:30pm we got back into the pickup truck for the ride down the mountain to grab a spot at one of the restaurants to view the bat migration. I forgot the name of the restaurant, but we sat on the second floor to get a better view of the bats’ flight path.
We purchased some bottled water and beers and settled in for the show. Around 5:44pm, the bats started their migration from the cave, and it was a sight to behold! Chet said that each day at dusk, millions of bats will fly out of the caves to find food and hang out around the area. They will return to the cave around 3am to hibernate until the migration happens again at dusk.
Although I knew what to expect, it was still amazing to see the flow of bats leaving the cave. There was a steady stream of them for about 30 minutes!
We left Phnom Sampeau around 6:15pm and headed to my aunt’s house to pick up Uncle Ren and several others so that I could treat them to a family dinner. They rarely get to eat out, so this was a nice way for us to continue to catch up on life and share stories about my late parents.
We decided to dine at Au Cabaret Vert, an eco-friendly hotel owned by a Cambodian and French couple. I considered booking rooms here during our search for accommodations in Battambang, but am glad we ended up at The Sanctuary Villa – I love our villa there. We were a party of 17 and the two servers were really great (and patient) with us. We ordered some appetizers and entrees for everyone, with a mix of Cambodian and French foods. I don’t think the food is anything to rave about, but the experience and ambiance was nice. We were at the restaurant for about two hours and didn’t feel rushed to leave at all…service again was excellent!
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 20TH
BATTAMBANG & Siem reap
Today’s weather: High of 89° and low of 71°, with humidity at 47%.
Although Battambang is the second-largest city in Cambodia, it’s more laid back than Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (the capital).
MORNING & AFTERNOON - BATTAMBANG
Kevin and the others enjoyed the free buffet breakfast while I got ready for the day. The driver and Chet came by to pick us up at 8am so that we could start the day by visiting my relatives to catch up and to distribute toys/clothing/cash donations to the various households.
The purpose of the Asia trip was so that we can bring half of my parents’ ashes back to Cambodia to be with their loved ones there. The initial plan was to have their ashes interred at the neighborhood temple with the monks, but unfortunately they did not have room for more urns. In the end, my sisters and I ended up purchasing a beautiful shrine to hold my parents’ ashes (right photo), which will be kept at my aunt’s house so that family members can light incense and honor their memory by giving daily prayers. The shrine has room for more urns, so other deceased family members can be placed there too. My mom was a Buddhist, so she believed (as many Buddhist’s do) that death is part of a cycle of reincarnation, so the family arranged for a monk to chant prayers over their ashes in order to help guide their spirits as they prepare for incarnation. My sisters and I covered the cost of the ceremony and the items needed to prepare meals for those in attendance. My parents’ family and family friends were in attendance, and were so happy we brought our parents back to their hometown.
Top Left: Banana trees growing in a neighbor’s backyard. Wish I had one of these in my backyard…fruit just tastes so much better right off the tree!
Top Right: Andrew standing in front of a bottled water delivery service vehicle.
Bottom Left: Our driver procured some fresh, young coconuts for us. Not sure if he climbed the tree to get it though… I can safely say he’s wielded that machete before, hah!
Bottom Right: Jacqueline enjoying one of the fresh coconuts. We all know that coconut water is good for the body…mmm.
Most families grow their own fruits and vegetables, and you can spot papaya, mango, banana, and other fruit trees just walking around the neighborhood.
It’s not uncommon for households to have a cow or two on hand to plow the land, haul gear, and/or provide dairy. It was neat to come across them as we walked the neighborhood going from each relative’s house.
My maternal aunt, who is bedridden because of a fall that left her paralyzed. Unfortunately, they don’t have access to the same healthcare we do here in the States. Fortunately, she has children and grandchildren to help care for her.
One thing I love about the Cambodian culture is that children will always take care of their parents/elders - abandonment is not an option. I am proud to have carried on the tradition with my mom, who lived with me for ten years before she passed in April 2019.
We brought bulk over-the-counter medications and other necessary toiletries specifically for my aunt. We also gave her one of my mom’s jackets, which still had the latter’s scent - my aunt was moved to tears.
Top Photo: My mom’s three surviving siblings. Uncle Ren is the one who saved my dad from execution three times during the Khmer Rouge regime. The aunt in the middle very much reminds me of my mom in looks and temperament. She has the same sense of humor and always has a quick comeback to everything. The aunt on the right is paralyzed, so she was carried to the chair for the photo by her grandsons. It was touching to see how lovingly everyone treats their elders.
We gave the little girls Barbies from my collection and the boys coloring books/ crayons, as well as clothing and chocolates. We gave the adults much needed cash and clothing.
Between my sister, myself, Kevin, and his parents, we had more than two suitcases full items to distribute amongst the families – it was heartwarming to see how appreciative they were of every little thing. I only wish we can do more. I was once again reminded of how lucky we are to be able to live in the United States and pursue a better life. I admit that sometimes I take things for granted…
After visiting each household, we got in the van for a ride to visit the various routes and places my dad used to hide from the Khmer Rouge in the late ‘70s.
So my dad was imprisoned by the Khmer Rouge between 1976 and 1979 and was separated from his family, including me, my younger sister, and my mom, for two and a half years. He avoided execution three times with the help of Uncle Ren. We’ll get more into this later…
Also, can you believe we fit 13 adults into this van??? It didn’t feel crowded at all…seriously.
Our first stop was to a small temple complex that the Khmer Rouge used as a prison holding area for Cambodians waiting their turn for execution.
The Khmer Rouge were doing an ethnic cleansing to rid Cambodia of any intellectuals, artists, and other non-farmers. During their regime, hundreds of thousands of Cambodians were murdered, starved to death, or died from illness, including many of our relatives.
Many temples were turned into prisons, and fields within the complex and or bodies of water served as mass graves of innocent Cambodians.
My dad was kept at this temple for several days before Uncle Ren got word that he was there and subsequently managed to get my dad moved to a safe house. Uncle Ren said that the Khmer Rouge kept imprisoning my dad because they did not believe that he was a farmer as he had claimed (my dad used to be a soldier for the government).
Uncle Ren was a designated driver for the Khmer Rouge because many did not know how to drive, so they spared him because he proved useful. Because of his informants, my uncle was able rescue my dad and some other relatives from being executed more than once.
Bottom Right Photo: One of the many killing fields/dump sites that served as a mass grave for Cambodians killed by the Khmer Rouge. My dad managed to avoid the same fate with the help of Uncle Ren.
Left Photo: Uncle Ren hid my dad in the ruins above under cover of darkness. My dad slept here for several hours before he was moved to a safe house.
Right Photo: Posing for a group photo. I wanted to give my feet a break from sneakers, so decided to wear flip fops…big mistake! We were bitten by fire ants and our feet were in pain for several days!
Our next stop was to another temple complex, and one of my favorites in terms of how beautiful the pagodas and grounds are.
The birds chirping, trees bearing jackfruit, and all the greenery lends a serene feel to the place. It’s hard to believe that this same area was used by the Khmer Rouge in the late ‘70s to hold prisoners and the fields used as mass grave sites.
Left Photo: One of the many shrines in Battambang that contains the remains of those who died by the hands of the Khmer Rouge. The monk pictured here lives at the temple and takes care of the grounds and prays over the souls of the deceased. The temple is kept afloat by donations, so anything you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Right Photo: The grounds of the temple complex looks serene and beautiful, but back in the ‘70s it was used as mass gravesites.
Our next stop was to visit a house that Uncle Ren hid my dad at for several hours before he was able to move to another safe house. A different family lives there now, but we still paid our respects. I can only imagine the fear and loneliness my dad and other escapees felt during the Khmer Rouge regime.
The videos show the grounds of the Wat Samrong Knong complex. Besides its gorgeous appearance, the flowers from the tree smells so wonderfully fragrant!
My cousin said pregnant women brew the flowers to drink, which helps ease the birthing process.
Within the Wat Samrong Knong complex is the Well of Shadows, a memorial built to honor the thousands who died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge.
The stone carvings along the walls of the memorial highlight some of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge upon their people.
In April 1975, the Khmer Rouge ordered the people to abandon Battambang City, and forced them to live in a new ‘village’, without any creature comforts. According to the stone carvings, the enslaved suffered the following: forced to build the Kamping Poy Dam, where many perished during the labor; women were often raped and killed; children were killed while their parents were forced to watch; men and women were forced to marry at mass weddings, regardless of whether they were already bound to someone else; and, during interrogations, victims are forced to confess to crimes specifically charged by their captors, regardless of whether they committed them or not.
When Battambang was liberated by the Vietnamese army in early 1979 and my dad was reunited with us, my parents made the decision to escape Cambodia on foot to Thailand with a few other families. I was only a child, but remember hiding in the tall marsh grass at night as soldiers marched by. My parents did not want to leave Cambodia without their family, but Chet and others lied to them that they would be following us to Thailand soon after - that was the only reason why my parents left their home country. Eventually our group reached the northern Thailand border and we ended up at the Khao-I-Dang refugee camp with thousands of other Cambodians. I have some memories of our time in the refugee camp – my youngest sister and brother were born during our time there. We stayed at the Thailand refugee camp for a couple of years and were one of the lucky families to be sponsored for relocation to the United States – we ended up in Wichita, Kansas. I will be eternally grateful for the sacrifices my parents made so that they could give us a better future in the United States.
To learn more about the what it was like for our family and millions of other Cambodians during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror, and aftermath, check out the Netflix movie, “First They Killed my Father”, as well as the 1980s movie,“The Killing Fields.”
After we were done with Wat Samrong Knong, we walked across the road to buy something to eat. The family got excited about the Kralan vendor.
Kralan is made of sticky rice and soybean cooked in coconut milk and then roasted in thick bamboo tubes over hot coals. It’s a very labor intensive process to make Kralan, and this vendor’s prices for the dessert ranges from 1,500 Riel each ($.37 USD) for the shorter, thin tubes to 3,500 Riel each ($.86 USD) for the thicker and larger tubes.
I bought ten of the larger tubes of Kralan and gave extra to the vendor…felt kinda guilty because of how cheap he was selling them for.
Left Video: Vendor chopping off the charred bamboo husks for easier access to the dessert. In the back is the charcoal ‘grill’ used to roast the Kralan. The shavings will be added to the fire…nothing is wasted.
Right Video: Kevin and Andrew trying out the dessert. Kralan is a cheap snack that will keep you full for a few hours because of the starch.
My mom used to make one of my favorites on special occasions, Num Om Saum, which is similar to Kralan, but is instead steamed in banana leaves on the stovetop. Num Om Saum consists of sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, which is then flattened on a banana leaf, after which seasoned pork belly and mung beans are added…the mixture is then rolled in the banana leaf and tied with strings before being steamed for several hours. Another variation uses Asian banana…yum.
These steamed savory and sweet morsels are comfort foods for me growing up. I know how to make it - just not sure if anyone will eat it with me…any volunteers?
We drove back to The Sanctuary Villa, where we said goodbye to everyone. Unfortunately, my time in Battambang was limited due to scheduling conflicts when we initially booked the Asia trip, and therefore, my time with the relatives here was short. It was great to spend time with our relatives, and I definitely learned a lot about my parents’ past. I wish we could have used the same driver to take us back to Siem Reap, but I had booked a different private van with https://bookmebus.com several weeks before our trip for the one-way ride from Battambang to Siem Reap. (The private van cost $90 USD for the one-way trip.)
The driver with Book Me Bus was waiting for us when we got back to The Sanctuary Villa (TSV), and so we went to grab our luggage to load onto the van and check out (very easy and quick process). The check-out process for TSV was quick, and you can pay your balance via credit card (which I did) or cash (US Dollars preferred). Chet happens to know the driver taking us to Siem Reap, so he decided to make the trip there with us to regale us with more stories, as well as to keep the driver company as both were returning to Battambang. The drive from Battambang to Siem Reap took about 3.5 hours. It took a while for us to get out of Battambang because of the construction, but once we were passed all that, it was a smooth ride. Since we planned on visiting some temples within the Angkor Archaeological Park the next day, we had them take us to the official ticket office so that Kevin and his parents can buy their tickets ahead of time. (Sophay and Jake already visited the temples in Siem Reap with Chet and others prior to our arrival in Cambodia, and I didn’t need to buy a pass since I’m Cambodian.) Once we were done at the Angkor Wat ticket office, the driver dropped us off at the AirBnb. We tipped the driver (fare was prepaid), said our goodbyes to Chet, and off they went back to Battambang.
Our AirBnb host, Mr. Nith Nimol and his assistant greeted us and offered us a wet towel and fresh juice while we checked in, and gave us a tour of the grounds.
I booked the whole villa with AirBnb for four nights, and the total cost was $785 USD. The villa has two bedrooms (one king and two twins) and two bathrooms on the first floor, with the same setup on the second floor. We also had sole access to the beautiful pool during our stay, as well as a hot, complimentary breakfast each morning.
The video shows the unit on the second floor, which Kevin and I stayed in. Sophay, Jake, and Kevin’s parents stayed on the bottom floor. The units are set up exactly the same. Mr. Nimol stocked up each fridge with complimentary bottled water, various sodas and local beers - each unit also had a plate of local fruit (SO GOOD), a bottle of red wine, and packaged coffee. The only downside is that those in the floorboards creaked when Kevin and I walked around, and those staying in the bottom unit had to endure it.
Once we dropped off our luggage and freshened up, Mr. Nimol called two Tuk Tuks for us, so that we could go into town and grab dinner. Sophay and Jake were in Siem Reap with my other sister and relatives several days before, so based on her recommendation, we went to de Tummour, a Thai restaurant they dined at previously.
De Tummour is located on the second floor of The Heritage Walk, a three-story shopping mall located in the middle of town. It also happens to have a nice Starbucks inside, which is where we bought our Cambodia souvenir coffee mugs.
The restaurant wasn’t full when we checked in at 6:30pm, so we were seated quickly. I only had one small bite of the Kralan all day, and the others haven’t really eaten anything since breakfast, so we were famished!
We ordered the following items to share: Shrimp Pad Thai ($6.75 USD); Whole Fried Sea Bass ($16.95 USD); Pad Thai with Shrimp ($6.75 USD); Spicy Papaya Salad with Fermented Blue Crabs ($6.75 USD); Stir-Fried Morning Glory with Oyster Sauce ($4.50 USD); Stir-Fried Chicken with Cashew Nuts / not pictured ($5.50 USD); and Fried Chicken Wings / not pictured ($10.50 USD). We were given two complimentary desserts to share, which consisted of shave ice in a big glass container, filled with vanilla ice cream and cubes of lychee…it was very refreshing.
The food was delicious, but the service here was lackluster. The servers rarely came to check on us, so we had to flag them down when we needed something. Overall, I would recommended dining here if you’re looking for good food with air conditioning. You’ll also get good views of the surrounding areas.
My sister suggested a foot massage after dinner and we were game. We flagged a couple of Tuk Tuks outside the shopping mall (there are tons) to take us to the 24hr Massage & Spa located about five minutes from the restaurant.
The place wasn’t full, so we didn’t have to wait long before the we were each assigned a lady for the foot massage. First they washed our feet and then led the six of us to a private area, where they worked on our feet and legs for an hour.
It’s mind-boggling that the foot massage was just $5 USD per person! We tipped well of course…like $5 per person.
The ladies were sweet and attentive. To be honest, I like a lot of pressure when getting massages (almost to the point of pain), but I didn’t get that. The lady that worked on my feet even used wooden sticks to apply more pressure, but I guess my pain tolerance is too high. It was still a nice massage, so definitely give this place a try.
Kevin and his parents fell asleep during their massage, so obviously they loved it.
After the foot massage, we headed back to the AirBnb to turn in for the night.
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21ST
SIEM REAP, cambodia
ANGKOR PASS
Unless you are a Cambodian citizen, visitors must possess an admission pass (aka Angkor Pass) to visit the temples within the Angkor Archaeological Park. The pass can only be purchased at the official ticket center, which is open between 4:30am and 5:30pm every day. The fee can be paid in cash (US Dollars, Cambodian Riel, Thai Bath, Euro) or by credit card. There is an on-site ATM for cash withdrawals. There are three types of passes available: 1day pass for $37 USD; 3day pass for $62 USD; and 7day pass for $72 USD. We chose the one-day pass since we designated only one day to visiting temples.
So even though passes can’t be pre-booked, as long as you purchase them after 5:00pm and before the office closes at 5:30pm, they will be valid for the next day. Also, taxi and Tuk Tuk drivers will know to bring visitors to the ticket office before entering the park if you don’t already have the passes. Andrew purchased passes for Jacqueline and Kevin yesterday, so we didn’t have to worry about it this morning.
Your mugshot will be taken at the time of purchase, and you will be given a badge with your picture. Passes are regularly checked at most of the monuments and at the checkpoints, and you will be turned away if it’s not in your possession. I didn’t need a pass because I’m Cambodian, and even though I have blonde hair and look pretty American, they waved me through when I conversed with them in Khmer. That’s likely their way of testing whether I’m Cambodian?
Mr. Nimol suggested the following tours when I booked the AirBnb:
1) $58 for private van from 9:30am to 5pm to visit Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebone, and Pre Rub…finish with sunset at Bakheng Moutain;
2) $80 for private van from 8:30am to 4pm to visit waterfall at Koulen Mountain and then to Beng Mealea (Jangle Temple);
3) $50 for private van from 5am to 12pm to visit Angkor Wat at sunrise, then on to Angkor Thom, Bayon, Banteay Kdeiy, and Ta Phrom; and,
4) $35 for private van from 2pm to 5pm, to visit the Floating Village at Tonle Sap Lake.
Since we didn’t want to spend all our days in Siem Reap going on tours, we opted to just go for option #3, which covers the MUST SEE temples in Siem Reap. If your time is limited, I suggest visiting just the temples listed under option #3. Although all are beautiful, after a while, the temples begin to look the same. Plus, it’s too hot to be out and about for more than a few hours! We woke up around 3:45am to get ready for the day. Since it was too early to have a full, hot breakfast, Mr. Nimol packed each of us a sausage, ham & egg sandwich, a plain croissant, a Danish, strawberry yogurt, and Mandarin orange juice.
Mr. Nimol’s brother, Matel, was our driver for the day and he picked us up at 4:40am. Matel took care of us very well, and was always on hand to pick us up and provide cold, bottled water after we were done with each temple.
The Angkor Wat complex is open from 5am to 6pm each day, and we arrived at the entrance around 5am. As you can see by the video, it was still pretty dark, so carry a flashlight or use the one on your phone.
Since we wanted a prime spot to catch the sunrise, Matel was kind enough to go inside with us so that he could show us the best spot to do so. Angkor Wat is huge, so we would have been lost without him. Once he got us to the spot, he went back to the van to wait until we were done.
So the purpose of going here at sunrise was to capture photos and videos of Angkor Wat bathed in the vibrant golden light, which is made more magical because of the temple’s image in the reflecting pool. Alas, it was cloudy the day we went, so we didn’t get the iconic golden light (see time-lapse video). So if this is your goal, I recommend buying a multiple day pass in order to have the option to come back at sunrise. Right Video: Just several hundred of our friends…
November is considered one of the ‘cooler’ months in Cambodia, but honestly, it’s still hot! It was mostly cloudy while we were here, but the sun peeked through several times. It even sprinkled lightly for a bit, but not enough to mess up my hair…the hat really helps, hah! My last trip to Cambodia was during the month of August, and trust me, it’s much cooler and less crowded to visit in November. Matel told me that there have been fewer tourists this November than in prior years, which really effects the livelihoods of the locals since tourism drives the economy.
There are many nooks and crannies to explore within Angkor Wat, and we continued to be amazed by the intricate details of each area.
Although there were several hundred people with us, it didn’t feel crowded because the complex is so large. Everyone seemed very respectful of the fact that it’s a religious monument, so there was no yelling or other obnoxious behavior.
Angkor Wat is considered the world’s largest religious monument and was built in the early 12th century.
There are many stone carvings that depict life back then, such as battle scenes.
There are no posted signs identifying different parts of the temple, so if you’re wanting to be more immersed in the history of Angkor Wat, it might be a good idea to hire a tour guide. Some can be found near the entrance, and I’m pretty sure the rate is $20 USD. You can also buy the ‘Ancient Angkor’ guide book from one of the people hawking them near the entrance. Andrew ended up buying one and he found it useful – he paid $10 USD for it.
We spent a couple of hours at Angkor Wat (minus waiting for the sunrise) and left around 8am. By this time it was already 75°F, but because of the clouds, it didn’t feel too warm…yet.
By the time we left Angkor Wat, vendors were already set up to sell their wares (see video).
We met Matel at the parking ‘lot’, where he had cold, bottled water ready for us.
We ate the food that Mr. Nimol packed for us, knowing that we had several hours of exploring left to do and it would be a while before we get to sit down for lunch.
Our next stop was to explore Angkor Thom, one of the largest Khmer cities ever built, located less than three miles from Angkor Wat. Angkor Thom was built in the Bayon style, the most notable of which is the use of the face-towers at each of the entrances to the city. The most iconic entrance (to me) was the one at the South gate, with a bridge across the moat that is lined on each side by statues of Gods and Asuras, and the awe-inspiring tower of four faces pointing in each direction.
Once we were inside Angkor Thom, Matel pulled over so I could take a photo from this perspective (see below). Afterwards he dropped us off in front of Prasat Bayon and told us to explore the various temples at our leisure and to meet him at the parking area when we’re done. I told him he didn’t have to wait for us and can just come back later, but he said he was going to take a nap in the van while we explored.
We spent about an hour at Prasat Bayon, a richly decorated temple within Angkor Thom that has many giant stone faces smiling down at you from every direction. It has mazes of tunnels, blocked doorways, as well as lots of nooks and crannies for exploration.
There are many monkeys roaming around the towers. Speaking of which, I gave two of my bananas to this little guy sitting by the side of road, seemingly just chillin’ and people watching. More than likely he was waiting for suckers like me to feed it…I happily obliged.
It was a short walk from Prasat Bayon to Baphuon, a three-tiered temple built in the 11th century also located within Angkor Thom. This temple reminds me of a pyramid and is one of my favorites because of its size and structure, and the fact that it’s surrounded by large trees that seemed to filter out some of the noise to make it feel very serene. There are steep stairs you can take to the terrace to get amazing views of the surrounding areas. We spent about an hour here.
After Baphuon we walked to Terrace of the Elephants, a long terrace that looks out over the Royal Square and was used for receptions. The wall is full of continuous carvings of elephants in hunting scenes, and there are stairways for you to climb to get views of the surrounding areas.
We spent about half an hour here and then headed across the street to the market area, where we got some iced coffees. Word of warning – there will be hawkers repeatedly asking you to buy their items. You will encounter hawkers at all the sites, so it may become annoying. If you’re not interested, just politely say “no thank you”, and/or do not make eye contact. We wanted to support the people trying to make a living, so each ended up buying a white linen shirt – mine and Jacqueline’s has an elephant design. After our little break, we found Matel, who again had cold, bottled water waiting for us.
We got to Ta Prohm, also known as the Tomb Raider Temple, around 10:30am. By this time, there are more tourists, but it still didn’t feel crowded. Ta Prohm is a sight to behold. Here the ruins have been taken over by nature, with the silk-cotton trees’ massive roots growing out of and on the structures. Some of these roots appear to have crumbled portions of the temples, which lends to the magical air about the place.
All the temples have their own history and are so richly detailed - it’s amazing to think of all the talent, blood, sweat and tears that went into making these amazing structures.
There are many temple complexes within Angkor Archaeological Park. The ones we explored today are the more well-known ones; however, tailor your day to explore whichever ones catches your fancy.
We finished at Ta Prohm at 11:30am and had Matel drop us off at Neary Khmer Restaurant for lunch (he turned down my offer to join us – said he’ll run some errands while we ate).
This restaurant comes highly recommended by one of the ladies at the foot massage place. She said she brings family and friends here when they visit. I expected a small mom & pop restaurant, but the place is huge and kinda upscale. We opted to sit inside instead of out on the terrace because of the cold air conditioning – needed to cool down after hours of being in the heat! The menu offers tons of Chinese, Western, and Cambodian options.
I ordered the Khmer spicy sour soup with pork spareribs with a side of steamed rice ($6.20USD); Kevin ordered the beef fried rice ($6 USD); Jacqueline ordered the vegetable fried rice ($5 USD) and green salad ($6.90 USD) – neither are pictured; and, Andrew ordered the Cambodian chicken curry with a side of steamed rice ($8.20 USD). Jacqueline expected a small salad, but it was presented on a large plate – guess the price should have been a tip-off, eh? Everyone enjoyed their meal, and the service here was good.
I had been craving my favorite Cambodian soup, Somlor Machu Krueng - a sour soup made with a paste consisting of lemongrass and other herbs, veggies (morning glory being my favorite), meat (I prefer pork spareribs), and other ingredients. The foot massage lady told me this restaurant offers it, so I was very happy when I saw it on the menu! Of course I prefer my food spicy, so had to add some sliced chillies (ended up using all that was in the little plate.)
Andrew’s Cambodian chicken curry (Somlar Kari Saek Mouan) was amazingly presented in an empty coconut husk!
This curry was something me and my mom made from scratch at least once a month. It’s a thick and hearty curry, usually made for special occasions. I think I should make it soon…
After lunch we asked Matel to take us to a grocery store so we could stock up on wine and snacks. He took us to Angkor Market, a modern looking supermarket that has pretty much everything you need. Although it was nice, I thought everything was overpriced, even by US standards. I can’t imagine that most of the locals can afford to shop here, so this is likely billed as an upscale supermarket.
We were done at the market by 1:30pm and headed back to the Airbnb. We hung out with Sophay and Jake until they left for the airport at 5pm to head back to Bangkok. We were too lazy to head out for dinner, so just hung out at the AirBnb before calling it an early night. We were wiped out from being out in the heat for several hours.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22ND
SIEM REAP
We got to know Mr. Nimol and his staff well during our stay in Siem Reap. Mr. Nimol used to work at a 5-star hotel and used what he learned to start his own hospitality business – you can really tell he learned from the best because we felt very spoiled during our stay at Image D’Angkor.
As the video shows, the grounds of the AirBnb are beautiful, with fruit trees and shrubs lending to the tropical and peaceful feel. The dining area is off to the right, and the bottom rooms are off to the left. The pool is kept clean and was a good way to cool down after being out in the hot sun exploring the town.
Kevin and I woke up at 5:30am (the usual) and just relaxed before we got up to make the packaged coffee provided by the host. We enjoyed sitting outside on the balcony, sipping coffee and just listening to the birds chirp and rooster crow…so peaceful.
Breakfast is served each morning at 7am in the dining room on the first floor. Everyday breakfast items consist of a hot meal, freshly squeezed juice, fresh fruit, coffee, and fresh bread/pastries. I’m usually not a breakfast person, but I looked forward to eating at every morning, just to see what we’ll be served. This morning we feasted on Eggs Benedict over steamed spinach on a freshly toasted baguette. We were given freshly squeezed carrot juice this morning, and everyone loved it. What a great start to our morning!
After breakfast they called for a Tuk Tuk to take Kevin and his parents to visit Psar Chaa (Old Market) for some shopping, while I relaxed at the AirBnb.
We had a 12pm lunch reservation at Sala Bai, so asked for a Tuk Tuk driver to pick us up from the AirBnb at 11:30am. It ended up being the same one that took Kevin and his parents shopping earlier in the day. We asked for him the rest of our stay in Siem Reap because he was so nice and patient. My bad, but I forgot his name - he’s pictured on the top. It was very dusty riding in the Tuk Tuks, so the face masks we wore really helped with our breathing. Don’t we look stylish?
Lunch at Sala Bai was something I’ve been especially looking forward to because the cost of our lunch helps to cover tuition and training for impoverished students. The restaurant meals, which are a fusion of Cambodian and French cuisines, are prepared and served by students. The training affords students the chance to learn skills for international standards of hospitality, and opens the door for them to pursue a life not steeped in poverty. 🥰
I made reservations a few weeks in advance via their website, https://www.salabai.com/en/restaurant, and received confirmation within 24 hours. The Sala Baï training restaurant is open for lunch service Monday to Friday, from 12pm to 2pm. So the cost is $13.50 USD for the Appetizer + Main Course + Dessert. You can opt for either the Appetizer + Main Course or Main Course + Dessert for $11.50 USD.
Our waitress and the other students were so shy and sweet. We knew that the students are practicing their English with the diners, and therefore, expected service to be slow. There was a supervisor there to oversee the ordering and food delivery.
Sala Bai changes their menu every two weeks. Today’s offerings include the following: Khmer Marinated Beef Salad (appetizer); Perfect Soft Boiled Egg on Cream of Roasted Pepper and Tomato Soup (appetizer); Pan-Fried Sesame and Tofu Salad with Lime Dressing (appetizer); Grilled Chicken Thigh with Curry Sauce and Steamed Rice (main); Grilled Pork Chop with Mashed Potatoes and Mustard Cream Sauce (main); Mix of Cambodian Mushrooms, Pumpkin Amok with Peanut Rice (main); Red Bean Leche Flan with Sabayon Fruits (dessert); Black Forest Cake with Cherry Sauce (dessert); and, Seasonal Fresh Fruit Platter (dessert). Two baskets of bread and butter were placed at our table.
I ordered the two-item combo consisting of the Khmer Marinated Beef Salad and the Cambodian Mushroom & Pumpkin Amok. I also ordered a large Kulen Mineral Water ($3 USD) to share with the table.
Kevin ordered the three-item combo consisting of the Soft Boiled Egg in Cream of Roasted Pepper & Tomato Soup, the Grilled Chicken Thigh with Curry Sauce, and the Black Forest Cake with Cherry Sauce. He also ordered the Watermelon Margarita ($4.50 USD) (he says it just tasted like watermelon juice) and a hot Khmer Coffee ($2 UDS).
Jacqueline ordered the three-item combo consisting of the Khmer Marinated Beef Salad, the Cambodian Mushroom & Pumpkin Amok, and the Seasonal Fresh Fruit Platter. Jacqueline also ordered a glass of the house Chardonnay ($3.50 USD).
Andrew ordered the two-item combo consisting of the Grilled Pork Chop with Mashed Potatoes & Mustard Cream Sauce, and the Black Forest Cake with Cherry Sauce. He also ordered a Jack Daniel ($3.50 USD) and hot Khmer Coffee ($2 USD).
All dishes were presented beautifully and tasted great. The only thing missing for me was fresh chilies for added spice.
After the lunch, we were given a guided tour of the grounds by the operations manager. She gave us the history of Sala Bai and showed us the kitchen where the food was being prepared by the students, the hotel, the classrooms, the students’ bunkers, and the spa. It was nice knowing that the non-profit organization will choose the most impoverished of students and make visits to their homes (regardless of the distance), in order to verify their status before approving their application to attend the school. Girls are given precedence for approval to attend the school because they’re considered less valuable in the Cambodian culture and would otherwise have a bleak future.
After we finished at Sala Bai, we asked the driver to drop us off at Psaa Char so that we could do a little shopping - he opted to wait for us. Kevin and I ended up purchasing one of the canvas paintings shown in the video for $80 USD (the one the young man is pointing at).
After a little bit of shopping we walked across the street to Nail Palace so that Kevin and Andrew could get a pedicure ($5 USD each), and Jacqueline a gel manicure and pedicure ($10 USD for each).
The girls did a wonderful job on Jacqueline’s nails, and it ended up lasting until she was back in the U.S. I definitely recommend this place.
My nails were already done, so I just relaxed on their lounger. My cousin, Chanthou, is currently living in Siem Reap and dropped by to hang out with me for a bit.
We met up with the Tuk Tuk driver afterwards and headed back to the AirBnb to hang out by the pool for a bit.
I was playing with SnapChat and found the age filter, so decided to have some fun with it.
That’s me at 10, 12 and 80 years old (I’m assuming). To the right is a timeline of Kevin at 10, 12, and 40 years old.
In the evening we had a 7pm dinner reservation at Art Shadow Restaurant. I made the reservation a few weeks in advance via their website, https://artshadowrestaurant.com, and received confirmation within 24 hours. We used the same Tuk Tuk driver and he picked us up at 6:30pm. We arrived at the restaurant by 7pm and were greeted by the host with some wet hand towels and a welcome drink. He then led us to our table, followed by young men beating on drums…so cool.
Shortly after we were seated, our waitress came by to welcome us to the restaurant, and took our drink orders. I ordered a glass of the sparkling wine ($6 USD) and a large bottle of Kulen water ($2 USD) to share with the table; Kevin ordered a glass of the Cabernet ($4.50 USD); Jacqueline ordered a glass of Chardonnay ($4.50 USD); and, Andrew ordered the Mai Tai cocktail ($4.50 USD). After she delivered our drink orders, she came by with complimentary servings of the Green Mango Salad with Smoked Fish, presented on banana leaf over a weaved bamboo basket shaped like a large spoon…so refreshing (top left photo).
I ordered the Samout Chheor from the Khmer Set menu ($16 USD), and got the Green Mango Salad with Smoked Fish for the appetizer (top middle photo). (I LOVE this salad).
The Samlor Kako Soup with Prawn Dumplings came next (not pictured). I’m used to a heartier Samlor Kako soup (with chicken and Asian veggies) that I usually eat with rice, so their strained version was weird to me.
Next came the entrees, which consisted of a Grilled Beef Skewer and Prawn in Curry Sauce, with Fried Vegetables and Steamed Rice. The flavors were subtle (a little too subtle for me), so I asked for a plate of sliced chilies (used it up too).
My dessert consisted of a sampling of Sticky Rice Cakes, Pumpkin Custard, and Seasonal Fruits - all favorites of mine growing up!
I have to say that being in Cambodia made me miss my mom and her cooking even more.
Kevin ordered the Banlung from the Western Set menu ($19 USD), and got the Tomato & Cheese Salad with Pesto and Crispy Fish with Orange Sauce for the appetizer (top right photo).
Next he was served the Roasted Tomato Soup with Melted Cheese on a Baguette (not pictured).
His entree consisted of a Grilled Beef Skewer with Teriyaki Sauce and Mashed Potatoes, presented with Poached Tonle Sap Fish and Vegetables (bottom right photo).
Kevin’s dessert was the Pumpkin Cheesecake (not pictured), which he gave to me because it was too exotic for him.
Andrew ordered from the à la carte menu and got the Roasted Beef Salad ($8.50 USD - top left photo) and the Grilled Lamb Chop ($22 USD - middle right photo).
Jacqueline wasn’t too hungry and ordered the Stir-Fried Mushrooms entree with steamed rice ($9 USD).
During dinner we were treated to a series of four dance shows, each derived from various regions in Cambodia.
The Krab Krobey Pherk Sra Dance is a blessing ceremony that is performed to ask the spirits health for the community.
The Harvesting Dance is performed in hopes that the spirits will bring good harvest for the following year.
The Ploy Souy Dance is performed in dedication to the cave spirits and other gods who are believed to protect the community.
Last up is the Apsara Dance, my personal favorite, which is performed to encourage rain, prosperity, and protection of the Kingdom of Kampuchea. Apsara a type of female spirit of the clouds and waters in Hindu and Buddhist culture. You will see sculptures of them at the various temples and in paintings sold at the markets.
After the dances were over, all guests are welcome to go onstage and get photos taken with the performers, which we did!
Our waitress was very sweet and attentive. I got the sense that she enjoyed chatting in Khmer with me because she kept asking about my life. All dishes were presented nicely and overall, tasted great. The welcome, dinner and show, and the service all lends to a great experience at Art Shadow Restaurant. I mean, all of that for $125 USD (gratuity included) is a cheap way to spend a couple of hours.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 23RD
SIEM REAP
Today’s breakfast was again served at 7am and consisted of fresh pineapple juice and freshly baked Danish/French bread to start. Soon after they brought out a plate each containing an omelet, an Asian sausage, a slice of ham, baked beans, and seasoned pan-fried potatoes. I especially loved the potatoes and pineapple juice – the latter is literally THE BEST I’ve ever tasted. What a great start to our morning!
Around 9am the host called the same Tuk Tuk driver for us, who dropped Kevin’s parents off at The Heritage Walk shopping center before dropping me and Kevin off at the Psar Chaa (Old Market) area. (He wanted to wait for us.)
For an authentic shopping experience, I recommend visiting Psar Chaa (aka Old Market) during the day. This market is located less than a 5min walk from Pub Street, and is where the locals shop for produce and meat.
You can find almost anything you need at Psar Chaa, and can definitely buy all souvenir gifts here. The prices here are much cheaper than at stalls near the various temples and tourist areas.
You will find stalls selling Cambodian silk scarves, table runners, T-shirts and other clothing items, silk purses, and even jewelry! Haggling is expected, but please don’t be so cheap as to offer 50-70% off the quoted price – they need to make a living after all. As for myself, I purchased many silk scarves and T-shirts from one vendor and she automatically gave me $5 USD off (I hate haggling).
You might experience some culture shock when you get to the area with the produce and meats, and the smells might overwhelm you. They don’t really have refrigeration like we do here in the U.S., so please try to keep an open mind.
Around 11am we walked across the street from the market to Central Bar and Grill for lunch (and to escape the heat). The restaurant has an extensive menu with decent prices.
The service here was good, as was the food we tried.
We ordered the Grilled Stuffed Chicken Wings ($4 USD), Grilled Pork Ribs ($3.50 USD), a serving of steamed rice ($.50 USD), and my requisite Stir Fried Morning Glory with garlic and oyster sauce ($3 USD). I ordered a can of Sprite ($1.25 USD) and Kevin got the Anchor beer on draft ($1 USD). For $13.91 USD (before tips), this was a cheap and fulfilling lunch.
We lingered here a bit to people watch before meeting up with our Tuk Tuk driver to head back to the AirBnb.
We hung out at the pool until my cousin, Chanthou, and her boyfriend came over for a visit at 3:30pm.
We hung out at the pool until my cousin, Chanthou, and her boyfriend came over for a visit at 3:30pm. Chanthou lives with her boyfriend in Bangkok, Thailand, but is currently in Siem Reap for a few months so she could attend school. Justin (who reminds us of Pete Davidson from SNL) teaches English in Bangkok and was here for the weekend to visit Chanthou.
Chanthou was kind enough to bring food over so we could eat family style and chat. It was nice to spend time with them and catch up on life. When they left around 5pm, we went to our room and took a nap.
We had the host call our Tuk Tuk driver to pick us up at 7pm to check out Pub Street. This place comes alive after 6pm, and the street will be blocked from traffic so that visitors can walk freely. This is where the tourists congregate to eat, drink, and party in the evening. Bright lights and loud music lends to the pretty festive atmosphere. There are tons of restaurants and bars here, and I recommend choosing one that has tables on the outside for people watching. Many of the restaurants offer cheap beer…as low as $.50!
Jacqueline chose Khmer Family Restaurant, which looked packed and very lively. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any seating up front for our party of four, so we ended up towards the back. It was kinda cool to see people shopping in the back as we dined there though.
The restaurant’s menu offers an extensive selection of Asian and Western dishes, and alligator is even on the menu. Some Western dishes include the following: Caesar salad with grilled prawns; Greek salad; grilled salmon fillet; charcoal grilled beef tenderloin steak; bacon cheeseburger; and various brick oven pizzas. Some Asian dishes include the following: fried rice; Khmer noodle curry; fresh and deep fried spring rolls; Khmer beef salad; banana flower salad; braised pork with farm egg; roasted river fish with tamarind sauce; stir fried morning glory; and Khmer red curry. Some more adventurous items include the following: fried frog with Khmer spice; special crocodile pizza; Khmer lemongrass crocodile; Siem Reap Pub Street crocodile; and classic crocodile burger.
I ordered the Khmer spicy sour soup with pork spareribs ($5 USD); Kevin ordered the chicken & shrimp Pad Thai ($4.75 USD); Jacqueline ordered the small vegetarian pizza – not pictured ($8 USD); and, Andrew ordered the Khmer red curry with shrimp ($6.50 USD). The restaurant offers so many desserts I grew up eating, so I ordered the Cambodian palm sugar dumpling. The dumplings are made with glutinous rice flour that is stuffed with a palm sugar filling, steamed, and then coated in freshly grated coconut. Okay…everything was presented nicely, but everyone agreed that the food all tasted bland. The dumplings barely had any palm sugar filling…not even sweet! The waiter asked me if I liked the food and I told him the truth, that no, everything tasted bland. He told me that he’s been told that before by other diners, and also said that the chefs toned down the flavors in order to suit Western taste buds. He apologized about the food, but I told him it wasn’t his fault…service was great.
I wouldn’t dine at Khmer Family Restaurant again. I think our experience here would have been better had we been seated up front so that we could watch the action on Pub Street. If you care about authentic Cambodian food, then I suggest choosing a restaurant with diners who are primarily Asian and located on the small streets away from the main area. If you’re more into viewing the action, then you’ll be fine here, just make sure you’re seated up front.